Although the site of New York's second deadliest riot -- a two-day confrontation between Protestant and Catholic, rich and poor, patrician and slum-dweller -- Astor Place was at the time the most elegant address in the country bar none. Still the home to some of New York's most prestigious institutions, it is one of the best preserved blocks in all New York.

The richest men in the world all left their durable mark on Astor Place: the ruthless Vanderbilt; Cooper, philanthropist and genius; Stewart the honest deal man, and, of course, the wily Astor himself. Among a dozen sites along the way, we will drop in on the Merchant House, the Public Theater and Cooper Union, all still alive with 19th century history.

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